Mining finally died out in the early 20th century, and since then, Nature has worked to reclaim the sites back to wilderness. However, some excellent remains still survive - and at Llywernog, one of the finest collections of mine-buildings anywhere in the area was restored in a project that has grown steadily from its beginnings in 1973, the old mine was awoken from its slumbers and began life as a mining museum, privately developed by a young mining historian Peter Lloyd Harvey, and his father, the late Dr Stephen Harvey of the University of Leicester. The museum survived in its conventional format untill 2012 when the new 'Silver Mountain Experience' Attraction arrived. Now, 42 years later, the Museum is still evolving and the traditions of the old mining district live on for future generations.
Llywernog mine included two principal groups of workings. These were at times worked separately and at times in conjunction. On the southern side of, and close to, the main A44 road lies the group of workings known as Powell’s mine, while to the north of the A44 lie the more extensive remains of the Poole’s mine that in now the Llywernog Silver-Lead Mining Mine and Museum. Known locally as Gwaith Poole. (Poole’s Minework), the original discovery of the mineral vein was made around the year 1742, during the reign of George III. The names of the original prospectors are not know but they would have possessed a Mining License or ‘Tack Note’ issued by the Agent of the Gogerddan Estate on behalf of Sir Lewis Pryse, the ‘Mineral Lord’. The first workings consisted of two shallow shafts connected by a level driven along the lode. The location of the early trials was in woodland, southwest of the great ‘opencut’, now visible on the present ‘Miners Trail’.
By 1790, two ‘adits’ or levels were being blasted into the hillside using techniques of hand-drilling and gunpowder charges. Both of those original tunnels are now accessible to visitors.One tunnel struck the ‘Main Lode’ of silver-lead ore (technically known as (‘Argentiferous Galena’) at a depth of 17m below the surface outcrop and a productive period of activity began. The other adit, driven further to the east was a disappointment, and cut only a minor lode with little or no ore visible. This tunnel now forms part of the ‘Miners Trail’ and is known as ‘Balcombe’s level’, named after James Barton Balcombe, Managing Director of the Llywernog Silver-Lead Mining Company in 1870. William Poole (of ‘Gwaith Poole’ fame) held the mining lease to the Llywernog minerals between 1807 and 1810. This was midway between the Battles of Trafalgar and Waterloo, at the most difficult period of the Napoleonic Wars. Poole’s mine was an outstanding success, employing 60 miners and making considerable profits with the high price of lead ore (£19 a ton). The main shaft, sunk vertically from the surface between 1810 and 1873, eventually reached a depth of 432 feet. Between 1824 and 1834, Llywernog Mine was leased (along with many others in the district) to Cornish ‘Mine Adventurers’, the Williams family of Scorrier House, Gwennap, near Redruth in Cornwall.
The Cornish miners brought their own folk culture to the Plynlimon Mountains. They called mine managers ‘Captains’, and the mine accountant a ‘Purser’. Depths of shafts were measured in fathoms (6ft or 1.85m) and they believed in Weslyan Methodism, building many chapels in the mining villages. Several villages had terraces of houses called ‘Cornish Row’ and their surnames were markedly different from the Jones’ and Davies’ of the neighbourhood; Tyack and Tregoning, Paul and Trevethan, Eddy and Bray, Kitto and Nancarrow are just a few of the strange names from the far south-west.At Llywernog, mine, adventurers came and went, as the shaft grew ever deeper. Robert Dunkin of Llanelli, a lead smelter in 1840, Joseph Holdsworth of Leicestershire in 1852 and then a series of mining companies, floated on the London Stock Exchange, such as Llywernog Mining Company Ltd of 1868.
With depth, the mineral vein became increasingly unproductive and pumping costs grew in proportion. In 1869, in addition to the 40ft diameter waterwheel, the company installed a 16 h.p. steam engine to assist with the pumps when surface water supplies were short. Around 1874, a giant 50ft diameter overshot waterwheel was buit at the Llywernog Mine in a final attempt to explore the lode at greater depth and to realise John Balcombe’s dream.By the 1880’s huge new mines were being opened up all over the world at places like Broken Hill in Australia and Leadville in Colorado, and the silver-lead ore marked crashed. In Cardiganshire, mines closed and whole communities emptied of people as they left to seek work in mines overseas or digging for ‘Black Gold’ in the valleys of south Wales. In the 1900s Llywernog Mine saw a little renewed mining activity as a Scottish Company pumped out the flooded tunnels and went prospecting for ‘Black Jack’ or zinc ore. By 1910, this venture was finished and the giant waterwheel gently rotted. In 1953, this monument to the mining engineers of yesteryear was blown up for scrap iron and a famous landmark was gone, seemingly forever.
Poole’s mine consists of one main shaft, the Engine Shaft, through which the ores and waste-rock were drawn and water pumped. It was sunk to a depth of 72 fathoms, or well over 400ft. Although this sounds deep, it is very much less than the depths to which some Cornish mines were finally sunk (3000 feet and more). Central Wales’s mines were generally quite shallow with the deepest shafts approaching 1050 feet in depth.In the mine there were two principal lodes. A lode is a steeply inclined (or often vertical) vein or seam of minerals that may or may not include valuable ores. The position of one lode may be clearly seen in the course of the underground tour that you can take during your visit. The vertical, slot-like cavern hewn out of the rock that you will walk through is the area where one of the lodes was found to be ore bearing and was mined away. Such slot-like excavations are called stopes and on the walls of this stope, remnants of the mineralisation may still be seen. The lodes at Llywernog mine are mineralised geological faults - literally cracks in the upper part of the Earth’s crust through which mineralising fluids have passed.
Mineralising fluids can be very variable but in general are hot, briny waters laden with dissolved metals and other substances that are forced upwards through the Earth’s crust under pressure. When they enter a favourable chemical and physical environment, in which drops in pressure and temperature play an important role, the dissolved metals can no longer stay in solution and precipitate out as ores and other minerals.It has been estimated, by a combination of geological, mineralogical and geochemical research, that the lodes of Llywernog were formed between the early Carboniferous and Permian periods. As at many Central Wales mines, there is evidence that the faults hosting the mineral lodes were active repeatedly, so that new pulses of mineralising fluid would come up and deposit new bands of minerals to add to those already there. It is fair to say that each such episode would have been noticeable at surface because of the violent earthquakes that would have accompanied the fault movement.The chief ore sought by the Llywernog miners was galena, lead sulphide. Galena was a very valuable mineral, as it contains 80% lead and, as at Llywernog, several ounces of silver in each ton of ore. Galena is a very distinctive mineral. The most striking features are its heavy weight and its beautiful, glittering metallic silvery-grey colour when freshly broken.
The other common ore at Llywernog is known by several names. Its mineral name is sphalerite, but to the miners it was variously known as black-jack or zinc-blende. Sphalerite is zinc sulphide, with varying amounts of iron. Pure zinc sulphide is white, but naturally occurring sphalerite is most commonly brown in colour. Iron-rich sphalerite is black. A freshly broken piece reveals the sparkly brown interior, but when it weathers the iron turns to a rusty colour. Some other ores have been recorded at Llywernog, particularly during the work done to open the underground part of the mine. The iron sulphide, marcasite, has been found in places. It is yellowish-white and metallic in appearance when freshly broken, but soon weathers and decays in damp air. There was a lot of marcasite in the veins worked at Ystumtuen, to the south of the Llywernog mines, and the product of marcasite decay, yellow-ochre, was at one time collected there for use as a pigment. The golden-yellow ore of copper, chalcopyrite, a sulphide of iron and copper, also occurs at Llywernog but not in commercial quantities. Finally, the very rare mineral ullmannite, a sulphide of nickel and antimony, has been found as very bright metallic grains, but only a few specimens are known.
Gold occurs at Llywernog, but only in what we would call academic amounts - less than a quarter of a part per million - or a fraction of one gramme per ton of ore. Gold levels are low, like this, throughout Central Wales. The gold-mining areas of Wales lie to the north, in the Dolgellau Gold-belt, and to the south, at Dolaucothi.With the ore-minerals, there are accompanying waste or gangue (pronounced “gang") minerals. Quartz (silica) is the commonest, and may be seen underground. It forms crusts of small, colourless, pyramidal crystals. Calcite, calcium carbonate, also occurs in places. The ores were either picked from the gangue by hand, or, where they were mixed together, the entire content of the lode was crushed and milled to separate them.
Llywernog was a modest producer of lead , silver and zinc. The group of mines worked under this name yielded, since 1845, 3813 tons of galena, 560 tons of sphalerite and 4260 ounces of silver, according to the official returns. However, silver returns were only filled in certain years and it has been estimated that the galena produced actually contained nearly 15000 ounces of silver! Although the Coffee shop and Gift shop are both wheelchair accessible and welcome assistance dogs, the tours do not permit any dogs and are only partly wheelchair accessible. There are three tours available: A Dragons Tale, Black Chasm (not suitable for young children) and A Miners Life.
Location : The Silver Mountain Experience, Ponterwyd, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion SY23 3AB
Transport : Aberystwyth (National Rail) then bus. Bus Routes : 525, X4 and X18 stop 5 minutes away.
Opening Times : Daily 10:00 to 17:00 July + August; Otherwise 10:00 to 16:00
Tickets per tour: Adults £12.95; Seniors £10.95; Children (4 - 15)£8.95
Tel. : 01970 890620